Ranch House BBQ and Steak House

TNT RESTAURANT CRITIC ED MURRIETA SAYS:
Wiped out by a mudslide, Ranch House recloated from the outskirts of Olympia to the Governor Hotel in downtown. Ranch House’s barbecue – apple-and-cherry-smoked brisket, pulled pork and pork ribs – is just as good in the new location. Slow-smoked brisket was alternately tender and chewy. Pork was sweet and moist. Ribs were pink and meaty. Smoked sausage was kissed with fennel. Ranch House has beefed up its menu with more steaks – hence the new, augmented moniker, Ranch House BBQ and Steakhouse. New steaks include a bacon-wrapped filet, a rib-eye and a porterhouse. I recently went for the 20-ounce porterhouse; it was a few flames past the medium-rare I’d ordered but it was as big and tender as the price requires.